Always Packed CulinAriane To Expand [Outdoors]

It's been hard to score a table at Montclair's CulinAriane for a long time, in fact, since we wrote about it way back when here. The good news, if you driven by wistfully craving cornmeal crusted oysters only to be discouraged by all the full tables, chefs Ariane and Michael Duarte are expanding the space they have by adding a few outdoor tables, with heaters at the ready.* The Duartes get a tip of the chef's toque in Crain's NY.

From a strong start, CulinAriane keeps on improving, invites comparison with the very best and merits a major detour.

Mr. Duarte tightly controls reservations, but even so there is often a short queue of casually clad patrons, wine bottles in hand, waiting for tables under the pressed-tin ceiling in the light, airy dining room.

Ms. Duarte, a native of Verona, N.J., blends artistry and assurance in her cuisine, replete with flavors of Italy, France and Asia. Dish by dish, food elicits oohs and aahs at the splendid success of each combination of fresh, top-quality ingredients. The tip-off is a mini beef Wellington—a one-bite amuse-bouche crowned with sweet tomato relish.

See the menu here. -- Annette Batson

*Correction: Culinariane is not expanding into a former candy store; the space it occupies was a former candy store, and later was Kimiko's, another restaurant that preceded Culinariane. Baristanet regrets any confusion.