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The Dusty -- And Safe -- Streets of Beijing

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

I've wondered, in the days since the stabbing death of an American at the Olympics, how many people around Baristaville are assuming Beijing is a dangerous place. It's hard to shake the idea that an American tourist could be sightseeing one minute and murdered the next, especially at an event as life-affirming as the Olympics.

I arrived in Montclair in 2004, after living in Beijing for three years. And as I met my new neighbors, several told me they wanted to see China. I offered advice on which sections of the Great Wall are the most beautiful and where to find the ultimate platter of duck. And always, I told them this: Beijing is the safest capital city I've ever seen. Crimes against foreigners -- muggings, burglaries -- are incredibly rare.

During our years there, my husband worked long hours. Back when we were childless, we had this routine -- I'd call the office around midnight and ask when he'd be done. "Soon," he'd say. "But come down here. Bring a book and read for awhile, and then we'll walk home together." So I'd walk three long blocks down a dusty sidestreet just off Second Ring Road, past the darkened stores selling Russian imports and the dingy hair salon, past the shuttered fruit stand that would open at dawn. In New York or Paris or Bangkok, I'd have been looking over my shoulder wondering if it was wise to be out that late alone. In Beijing, I didn't need to.

You can debate, of course, whether crimes against foreigners are rare because the government would crack down so heavily on those who perpetrated them or because it's a safe place by nature. But whatever your take on that, Beijing is generally very safe for tourists. And it's a fascinating city that's changing daily, filled with people eager to welcome Americans (especially those who bother to learn to say "ni hao" and "zai jian"). I can't promise you a perfectly smooth trip, but I can tell you that personal safety probably won't be an issue.

(Photo by Warren Levinson)

Posted by Melissa Rayworth on August 13, 2008 10:28 AM
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Forgive me, croiagusanam. but I bear some residual nostalgia for the sort of headbreaking Rizzo espoused. (Perhaps even on the international scene, as Russian thuggery now runs riot in Georgia.)

I sure preferred Rizzo to the "understanding" suggested instead by David Dinkins during his mayoral tenure, which led to Orthodox Jews being beaten up and cops standing by while Korean greengroceries and Jewish-owned buildings burned, summoning up visions of Kristallnacht.

Posted by cathar | July 14, 2008 8:15 AM
 

I have some residual nostalgia for the sort of headbreaking espoused by Rizzo, croiagusanam. (Perhaps even on the international scene, given the Russian thuggery currently running riot in Georgia as an "alternative" to the rule of law.)

Certainly Rizzo's philosophy seems much more palatable than the "understanding" urged by David Dinkins during his own mayoral tenure, which led to Orthodox Jews and Koreans being freely beaten up in the street, and the burning of Korean-owned greengroceries and Jewish-owned stores being burned down while cops watched impotently. Recalling at least for a few the event called Kristallnacht. I don't think such events would have occurred on Rizzo's watch. Even LCN and the Pagan's MC (sic) kept a fairly low public profile when he was mayor of Philly.

Posted by cathar | July 14, 2008 8:21 AM
 

*This message has been brought to you by the folks who felt a little bucktoothed kid was not cute enough for world consumption.

Posted by profwilliams | August 13, 2008 10:46 AM
 

True Prof, but that was more likely the Chinese government speaking rather than the Chinese people. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

Posted by Mrs. Martta | August 13, 2008 10:56 AM
 

And American media is not driven by superficial appearances? Sadly, this media kerfuffle is a point of contention while China's human rights abuses are ignored.

Posted by Spot The Looney | August 13, 2008 10:58 AM
 

I'm sure the streets are very safe, unless your pregnant with a second child, or walking your dog during a rabies scare, or even talking about the earthquake three months ago.

Posted by hrhppg | August 13, 2008 11:18 AM
 

Anyone seen the photo of W proudly holding up the flag, backwards at the Olympics - priceless!

Its on Perez

Posted by ackme | August 13, 2008 11:21 AM
 

If you get the chance, what "Tank Man" on Frontline. It covers the 1989 uprising and what happened afterward.

Posted by MMM | August 13, 2008 11:21 AM
 

The INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE warned foreigners against 'hundreds" of scams that are run by Chinese operators against tourists. Statistically, Beijing is probably safer for a tourist than other cities of its size. But saying that China is crime-free would require a great laep of faith, and a willingness to overlook the cost paid for such "safety". The cost in human rights, the cost in basic civil liberties. As Jefferson said, those who would trade liberty for order for get neither, and deserve neither.
I'll take my chances in New York or Paris or London, thanks.

Posted by croiagusanam | August 13, 2008 11:34 AM
 

But Mrs. M,

True dat!

But when the people allow the government to control them.... it's all the same.

Posted by profwilliams | August 13, 2008 11:52 AM
 

Well, let's just hope for a revolution then, Prof! Overthrow those damn commies! Kinda hard to do, though, when the commies have all the guns.

Posted by Mrs. Martta | August 13, 2008 12:01 PM
 

You do not need guns to render a government useless. If the Chinese people simply refused to show up for work - I'll just bet the gov't. would begin to listen very quickly.

It isn't guns that make the Chinese powerful. As they say here, "it's the economy stupid".

Posted by kissmygrass | August 13, 2008 12:16 PM
 

Croi, very well said.

I'm for the adorable little buck-toothed girl! I'm gonna start a new pink-ribbon campaign--Yang Peiyi for president!

Posted by Kate | August 13, 2008 12:19 PM
 

China doesn't need a revolution. If you're more interested in creating a post-communist stabilized economy and state, then the gradual conversion to capitalism and the availability of global communication will do more than any mass strike or violent overthrow.

Catastrophic and drastic change usually does not lead to stability. Gradual and systemic evolution does. China still has a long way to go, but the advances made in the past 30 years are amazing. This doesn't mean we shouldn't apply pressure when necessary, but beware of unintended consequences. China will be able to accomplish more towards democracy through gradual internal changes than we could ever force on them.

Posted by Argus | August 13, 2008 12:26 PM
 

"Anyone seen the photo of W proudly holding up the flag, backwards at the Olympics - priceless!"

Maybe williams should forward the US Flag Code to W

"(i) When displayed either horizontally or vertically against a wall, the union should be uppermost and to the flag's own right, that is, to the observer's left. When displayed in a window, the flag should be displayed in the same way, with the union or blue field to the left of the observer in the street."

Posted by Spicoli | August 13, 2008 12:55 PM
 

I still get chills thinking about the final flag scene from "In The Valley of Elah".

Now that I'm watching 'Generation Kill', I really feel for those poor sons of bitches that are serving in Iraq. They are going to be ticking timebombs for generations to come.

Posted by MellonBrush | August 13, 2008 1:02 PM
 

I got the biggest kick out of how happy he looked in the pic. tee-hee

Posted by ackme | August 13, 2008 1:17 PM
 

When the flag is displayed in that incorrect fashion it signals distress.

Posted by Spot The Looney | August 13, 2008 1:39 PM
 

Full set of Bush pics at the Olympics.
And one for "what can you say" category.

Posted by Pokey | August 13, 2008 1:53 PM
 

"I'll take my chances in New York or Paris or London, thanks."

But the dumplings there suck, for the most part...

Posted by Conan | August 13, 2008 1:58 PM
 

Spot, I believe an upside down flag is a distress call. A backwards flag is just backwards, unless it's on a uniform, and then I believe it is to represent the flag billowing as the wearer moves forward.

Posted by State Street Pete | August 13, 2008 1:59 PM
 

That buzzflash page is comedy gold Pokey. Thanks for the laugh!

Posted by dannyboo | August 13, 2008 2:01 PM
 

I'm sure the streets are very safe, unless you're pregnant with a second child, or walking your dog during a rabies scare, or even talking about the earthquake three months ago
----------------------------
Right on, hrhppg... Too bad W isn't with the flag.

Posted by Nellie | August 13, 2008 2:23 PM
 

Can't agree, Conan. I've never been to Beijing, but I have been to Hong Kong a few times and while there are great places there to eat, there are as many in Paris and even more in New York for Chinese food -- London maybe not so much. Like anywhere, you just have to hit the right places.
Now, the dog in China is FAR superior than that available in the West, I'll grant you!

Posted by croiagusanam | August 13, 2008 2:34 PM
 

Bush and his gaffes are priceless-- I will miss him.

Especially if the Coolest half-Negro in the world wins!

We'll all feel so corny (and dare I say, white...) when the O-Man is in charge.

But your Flag Code stuff is wrong. Holding a flag does not is not a "display" as to anyone on Bush's side of it, the stars are properly displayed.

Now if only he had slapped the beach volleyball player in the tush instead of the back--- Obama would never be so scared.

Obama would have two-handed that fanny!!!

Posted by profwilliams | August 13, 2008 3:01 PM
 

croiagusanam -- hate to call you out but I'm a bit of a stickler when it comes to the quotes of Tommy J. And he definitely did not make the statement you attribute to him. It was Ben Franklin. And the quote concerned liberty v. safety, not liberty v. order. There are a few versions of it, but in essence it says...
Those who would give up liberty in exchange for safety, deserve neither and lose both.

Posted by 'stina | August 13, 2008 3:07 PM
 

In my trips to Beijing and to all places in China, I always felt physically safe -- any time of day. There was one trip when I was pickpocketed in broad daylight, but I was never threatened or in danger.

As far as dumplings go, and I have eaten them in all parts of China, Hong Kong and the different Chinatowns in US and Canada -------- it depends on the chef - not the country.

Posted by Jo-Mel | August 13, 2008 3:11 PM
 

I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.

Thomas Jefferson - letter to James Lewis, Jr., May 9, 1798

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin - Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759

Posted by Pokey | August 13, 2008 3:30 PM
 

Sticklers abound.
The quote, " A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both, and deserve neither", has been attributed to Jefferson in a letter he wrote to James Madison. A variation has been ascribed to Franklin, and to John Stewart Mill.

Posted by croiagusanam | August 13, 2008 4:08 PM
 

"In New York or Paris or Bangkok, I'd have been looking over my shoulder wondering if it was wise to be out that late alone. In Beijing, I didn't need to."

I think this standard dis of NYC is getting a little stale (with the standard caveat about neighborhoods). But since I've never been a woman, though I've often been alone in NYC late at night, I can't say for sure, can I?

I'd be interested to hear from the ladies as to whether this is any sort of accurate take on nighttime NYC.

Posted by crank | August 13, 2008 4:57 PM
 

I'm a woman. I have lived in NYC, but that was back in the mid 50s so that probably doesn't count. I was on the street at 4AM, one night during that time, (not what you might be thinking LOL!) and didn't feel threatened. Now? I wouldn't even try. BUT - I think I'd be safe in Chinatown.

Posted by Jo-Mel | August 13, 2008 5:27 PM
 

croiagusanam, show me any reference that attribute that quote to anyone except Franklin.
Not a stickler, just like to be accurate

Posted by Pokey | August 13, 2008 9:52 PM
 

Accurate, stickler -- tomato, tomahto.
Franklin has been credited with the statement that, "They who give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty or safety".
However, the sentiment first appears in a letter from the Pennsylvania Assembly to the Governor in 1755. It also appears in the Historical Review of Pennsylvania in 1759. Franklin himself claimed that, while he published the book in which the statement appears, he did not write it. It was written by fellow "diplomat" Richard Jackson.
In the meantime, a paraphrased quote (the one I used in my post) has been attributed to Jefferson dozens of times. Among those sources are course syllabi from the University of California at Santa Cruz ( reg.ucsc.edu/soc/aci/winter2003/socy.html) as well as the University of Georgia (www.uga.edu/pol-sci/courses/rhudy. Additionally, the September 13 1999 edition of the Massachusetts Lawyers Weekly attributes the quote to Jefferson in an editorial.
So, take your pick. It matters very little to me who said it, but rather that it is so apt. But if it matters to you, so be it.

Posted by croiagusanam | August 13, 2008 11:46 PM
 

"A conservative is a liberal who was mugged the other night" - Former Philadelphia Police Commissioner and Mayor J. Frank Rizzo (and the quote is verifiable).

Posted by cathar | August 14, 2008 1:08 AM
 

And then there was Kitty Genovese, to remind of a woman who once had quite a bit of trouble walking the streets of NY. And in a neighborhood that supposedly was a pretty good one at the time.

Posted by cathar | August 14, 2008 1:09 AM
 

Good old Frank. He also offered this thought, verifiable as well:
"The streets are safe in Philadelphia. Its only the people who make them unsafe."

Stories persist that George W. Bush studied at Hizzoner's ashram during the "lost years".

Posted by croiagusanam | August 14, 2008 7:01 AM
 
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