Fans of the original Little Saigon on Franklin Avenue in Nutley, who mourned the restaurant's passing due to a fire, have been waiting, chopsticks poised, for its reopening in Montclair. Tucked away at 19 Elm Street, just steps from Bloomfield Ave., Little Saigon opened just prior to the new year, in the space formerly occupied by Apple's Caribbean. If you've visited Binh Duong in Bloomfield, you'll find many of the dishes familiar, but the atmosphere far more appealing. And although nitpicky foodies at egullet may take exception to the pairing of cloth napkins with linen tablecloths, it didn't offend the sensibilities of gang Barista, during a recent business lunch held there. We were way too busy eating the incredible food to care ($6 for lunch; $7 if you want soup -- try the peppery wonton). Little Saigon definitely kicks Montclair's Asian offerings up a notch. Sure, we love the dueling Thai restaurants on Bloomfield Ave., but Vietnamese cuisine is an exciting diversion, with intensely flavored dishes like Little Saigon's signature crispy friend sweet potato nest, a tempura-like creation studded with shrimp and served with fragrant fish sauce (nuoc mam). 
Little Saigon's dishes display all the hallmarks of great Vietnamese food -- fresh ingredients artfully prepared so that distinct flavors and textures and aromas emerge as you eat. It's food so flavorful you want to finish every last slippery strand of vermicelli or grain of rice. After wowing us with lunch, an extensive take-out order was procured for additional (yum!) research. The expertly-packed fare brought home did not disappoint; gracious touches like sprigs of coriander, basil and mint decked dishes accordingly and all the appropriate sauces were included. Shredded pork rolls, tightly wrapped in translucent rice paper, served as great starters. Grilled squid, incredibly tender, took on another dimension when dipped in the accompanying bean curd sauce. 
Sauteed beef with lemon grass and curry sauce on a bed of vermicelli was pleasingly spicy, not overpowering. Papaya shrimp salad, a menu standard, with its sprinkling of peanuts, shredded papaya and halved shrimp, was as good as we hoped, with the added bonus of a generous serving. Little Saigon has an interesting selection of desserts, including what qualifies as the Vietnamese version of comfort food, a warm tapioca pudding with sliced bananas floating in sweet coconut milk. Vietnamese iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk (similar to the Thai version) is a nice ending; more daring folks can try a Durian shake. 
For the uninitiated, durian is a football-sized fruit with a scent so pungent that's actually prohibited at some hotels in Vietnam. What draws people to it, is the custard-like fruit beneath its spiky husks, and a terrific flavor that transcends the smell (for some). For $3.50, you can try the shake or sample other exotic offerings including jellyfish salad ($8.95) or sauteed frogs in sweet and sour sauce ($17.95). Most of the menu items, including the poplar pho selections (noodle soups with beef, pork or shrimp) are in the $5.25-$8.95 range, with fish dishes running higher. Little Saigon is open every day but Monday; closes 9:30 pm, or 10:30 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. (973) 783-3914
Liz George
Who's the guy in the photo?