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Walnut Street Wonder

Monday, April 18, 2005

ElioWhere do you go for zucchini blossoms stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella or a crispy duck salad with escarole, chicory and muscato grape sauce? How about pasta chitarra fashioned from an authentic guitar-like contraption or a to-die-for chestnut torta with chocolate, both homemade by an Italian grandma?

The answer is Corso 98, of course. If you haven't been to this gem, you've been missing out. Consider it the sleeper to the publicity machine that is Fascino. Both restaurants are family run operations -- two brothers and their mom -- but Corso 98, with its exposed brick walls, high ceilings and beautifully crafted dishes inspired by the family's roots in Abruzzo, Italy, has a decidedly different appeal. The atmosphere was convivial this Saturday night and part of the credit has to be due to Elio Suriano (right), the charismatic, high-energy host who seems to know all his guests and has an uncanny ability to make them feel right at home in his five-star dining room. In the kitchen, his brother and co-owner chef Corradino Suriano sends out plates that have patrons craning their necks to see what the other table ordered.

Nicerack_2 We supped on incredible mushroom rissotto with truffle essence for an appetizer and the aforementioned duck salad. Then it was a pignoli-crusted crusted sea bass with caramelized root vegetables and a roasted tomato cream, and a portion of melt-in-your-mouth handmade gnocchi with smoked mozarella, arugula and tomatoes. Two dishes to try here, as evidenced by the many plates we watched come out, are a veal osso bucco, served on creamy polenta with wilted spinach, crispy artichokes and oven roasted tomatoes, or the gorgeous rack of lamb. For dessert, Corso 98 offers favorite desserts like tiramisu and creme brulee, as well as some incredible gelato flavors (marzipan with chocolate flakes and a Bailey's with chocolate covered coffee beans) but we opted for Mama Lucia's very own wheat pie and chestnut torta. Chesnutchocotorte_2 Like they say -- Mama knows best. We ended up sitting over cappuccino and some complimentary liqueurs for almost an hour, chatting with Ross, a regular at the next table who's eaten all over NJ, but is particularly partial to Corso. Check it out -- you won't be disappointed. And of course, tell them Baristanet sent you. -- Liz George

Corso 98, 96-98 Walnut Street, Montclair - 973.746.0789

Posted by Debbie Galant on April 18, 2005 12:51 PM
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Had the most incredible meal here recently. The fish was so fresh and I loved their homemade pastas! We'll definitely be going back.

Posted by pastalover | April 25, 2005 5:46 PM
 

Will this comment post?

Posted by test | April 26, 2005 6:58 AM
 

Sometimes it's the little things you remember most. I guess it could just be the particular other places I've been to, but generally I find the bruschetta disappointingly watery. Corso seems to make it with olive oil and it's just wonderful.

Posted by Walter | May 24, 2005 10:49 AM
 

Corso's lighting is distictly unflattering to both the guests and the food. The overhead lights suggest they have closed and are about to clean up. Table lights, even pseudo-candles, would be a welcome addition. I have relayed this suggestion to Mr. Suriano in the past.

Posted by robert erickson | June 14, 2005 5:29 PM
 

Although I would have agreed with the above writer, Mr. Erickson, a few months ago, Corso 98 has obviously picked up on diners' dissatisfaction with the lighting. We were there a week ago and only the sconce lights were on. It would have been perfect with some candle light, but we did ask for candles and they were brought to the table. Obviously the owners think that good food, nice decor and good service will over ride lighting, but for us it's all part of the package. Bring your own bottle (and maybe candles, too) and try their inventive menu and amazing variety of delicious desserts. Despite the jabs at the lighting, this is a stand out restaurant and one that should be experienced.

 

My wife and I went to Corso based upon the reviews from this site. We absolutely loved this place the stuffed zucchini was awesome. We both had fish dinners, I had the sesame encrusted tuna with wasbi and spaghetti veg and my wife had the broiled seafood platter. The food was outstanding from start to finish. We even tried dessert and the Cheese cake was..well just go see for yourself. You will not regret it..

Posted by kenny | March 28, 2006 10:16 AM
 

Sorry to say, but last Saturday I was here along with five of my friends, the food here was described by each of us in one word,"bland".
The atmosphere was nice, the music soft enough for us to enjoy our conversation, however, after reading the reviews here, We were very dissapointed!

Posted by David | December 12, 2006 6:47 PM
 

Corso 98 is by far the best restaurant in Montclair...Every time my husband and I go, we have excellent service, delicious food and a great time. I always recommend Corso to my friends and have never heard anything bad. Definitly my favorite!

Posted by bri | April 3, 2007 5:08 PM
 
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