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True Fish Tales

Thursday, January 17, 2008

What happens when fish market marries fish restaurant? You get three different seafood experiences in and around Baristaville.

At Whole Foods West Orange, I'm a fan of their salad bars and Indian food, but tend to forget about the Seafood Shack fish and raw bar, situated near the beautiful display of fresh fish that I long to buy, but whose prices give me pause. Which is one reason ordering at the sleek stainless steel bar is appealing - fresh grilled tilapia escabeche, bacon and oyster po'boy, and ahi tuna sandwich - all generous portions at $10.95 - seems like a bargain. The oyster po'boy was a shocking amount of light, beer battered gems, applewood smoked rashers of bacon, heaped in a roll with lettuce and tomato.

Ever since Chef Michael Ventura opened his bistro-market, "At The Market" last August in Nutley, readers, like JN, have been urging, no, insisting that we give it a try.

There is a new fish restaurant in Nutley that is wonderful. The prices are downright cheap, the service efficient and friendly. In an effort to be healthy, I'm trying to go every Thursday night for dinner. So far I've gone 4 times and each time has been perfect.

Last night was fish n chips which were done to perfection. I've also had Tilapia made "Caribbean" style with black beans and mango which was light and flavorful. The coconut shrimp appetizer is to die for. The swordfish was perfectly cooked. There is nothing my friends and I didn't like about this place. There's easy parking available behind the restaurant.

We ventured. The sight of glistening fish on ice greets you along with bright white subway-tiled store that gives the market an old-world retro look. There's a cozy dining room in the back.

FishOnIce.jpg

Lunch items we tried include the grilled salmon BLT wrap, Prince Edward Island mussels in a piquant Tunisian-spiced broth, beer battered fish and crab cake. The crispy beer-battered fish was exactly the texture, flavor and taste you hope for, but I'd give the deviled crab cake with chipolte aioli a miss. Call me a purist, when it comes to crab cakes, I only want one flavor - crab. Dinner items - seared tuna bites with wasabi and seaweed, grilled diver scallops with Mediterranean grains, or selecting fish cooked to order from the fresh catch of the day in the case sounds appealing, in a choice of Mediterranean, shanghai, Cajun or Caribbean style. At The Market is at 358 Passaic Avenue, Nutley, 973-667-0400.

Caldwell Seafood Market and Cafe has a small, unassuming dining room with murals of fish that surround you in seascape. A new lunch menu features wraps, salads and special platters, including a perfectly cooked grilled Cajun swordfish sandwich. Another score -- the hefty platter of of grilled salmon and crab risotto, as well as a generous portion of sushi-grade pepper-coated tuna over balsamic-dressed field greens, both a bargain at $11.95 each. We were less enthused with the lobster salad and lobster bisque. salmon%20risotto.jpg

At the aforementioned fish market, glistening slabs of fish, including Branzino, are displayed like jewels from the sea. Prepared fish dishes, such as cod stuffed with spinach and cheese, or stuffed shrimp, are available, as well as fish dinners with fries and cole slaw after 5 pm to go. The market prices are not for the faint of pocketbook, just as you'd expect for flawlessly fresh fish. Caldwell Seafood Market and Cafe, 390 Bloomfield Avenue, Caldwell. 973-226-2031.

Posted by Annette Batson on January 17, 2008 1:46 PM
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I have not had a chance to eat at the other two yet, but I can definitely say that “At The Market” has phenomenally fresh and delicious food. I’ve eaten there at least once a week since September (either dining in or taking out). They have a great fish selection and there always seems to be something new on the market catch board. I’m hooked on their cajun style preparation with horseradish mashed potatoes -- it’s not too spicy but has a nice little kick. My other favorites are the seared tuna wrap with wasabi and seaweed salad and their fish and chips. It’s well worth the drive to Nutley to give it a try.

Posted by Leslie | January 18, 2008 6:32 PM
 

"In an effort to be healthy, I'm trying to go every Thursday night for dinner. So far I've gone 4 times and each time has been perfect.

Last night was fish n chips which were done to perfection. I've also had Tilapia made "Caribbean" style with black beans and mango which was light and flavorful. The coconut shrimp appetizer is to die for."

Mmmm...now that's healthy eating - fish n' chips and coconut shrimp. If the pounds suddenly start shredding, don't be surprised.

Posted by karenk | January 21, 2008 4:19 PM
 

I thought the same thing, Karaenk.

Posted by Kaglan | January 29, 2008 11:03 AM
 

I hope you don't honestly think fish & chips or coconut shrimp are healthy.

Posted by Brian | January 30, 2008 1:49 PM
 

What if you drink Diet Coke with the fish and chips?
I'm going to the cooking class on Saurday morning, it sounds great. I had dinner with my husband there the other night, it was packed and the food was delicious.

Posted by foodiemom | January 30, 2008 4:20 PM
 

This is the restaurant I have been waiting for. A great seafood place, very nice owners, excellent food, reasonably priced! I had the crab cakes with Chipotle tartar sauce on a bed of corn relish... WOW! Can't wait to go back. This place is a real find!

 

How is it that "At The Market" has been open since summer & I, the area's #1 seafood lover, haven't heard of it till today? Something is seriously wrong with their PR.

They look interesting from their website, though they need to get their location on their home page, just silly to make you dig for it.

I haven't found anyone who can cook fish better than I can, but I'm willing to give these guys a chance & find out how they do!

Posted by crank | February 6, 2008 8:24 PM
 

They have pretty good fish and chips but of course not as good as the Argyle in Kearny.

Posted by Mystic Spirit | March 5, 2008 2:48 AM
 

I was there with my husband, sister and mom last saturday for dinner. The place is okay. The chef was accomodating and the service was very good. Our server Marcel was very attentive. We will be back again.

Posted by magoo | March 5, 2008 8:21 AM
 

I ate there yesterday with my son and I'm afraid I have to give it a so-so.

Our server (Collen) was lovely but the food itself did not wow me at all. We split an appetizer of mini crab cakes which were okay and the veggie dumplings where were like fried lumps of dough (very hard, not light at all) and very little veggie mixture.

I had the fish and chips and quite honestly will though they were terrible. The crust on the outside was okay, but the inside must have been also dredged in cornmeal which was not cooked and was in fact mushy. What fish was there was nice and flakey, but I'd rather take the trek to Kearny to Argyle's for authentic fish and chips. Also, the chips were shoestring style and mushy.

My son had the fried shrimp platter and fries - 5 decent sized shrimp, but again mushy fries.

I also ordered a New England syle clam chowder to go for my daughter who is a big fan of that soup and she did not like it at all - more fishy then creamy.

Total bill (less tax) was $50. I wouldn't mind paying that if the food was spectacular, but I'm sure that I won't be going back there again.

Posted by Anne Prince | March 16, 2008 12:01 PM
 

I think that Argyle's has gone downhill in the last year, I used to be a regular but no more. We have always enjoyed At the Market, I guess all restaurants can have an off day or meal.

Posted by foodiemom | March 17, 2008 12:24 PM
 
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